INCI: PENTAPEPTIDE-12 | Function: Signal Peptide, Anti-aging | Type: Signal peptide (5 amino acid chain) — Pentapeptide-12
What Is PENTAPEPTIDE-12?
Pentapeptide-12 is a synthetic signal peptide composed of 5 amino acids. Signal peptides work by sending biological signals to skin cells, encouraging them to perform specific functions. Pentapeptide-12 (Signal peptide — collagen I and III synthesis) is used in anti-aging skincare at very low (ppm-level) concentrations.
Key Skin Benefits
+ Stimulates skin's natural repair and renewal processes
+ Targets collagen and extracellular matrix production
+ Improves skin firmness and elasticity
+ Works at very low (ppm) concentrations
Pros
+ Potent — effective at ppm-level concentrations
+ Non-irritating for most skin types
+ Science-backed mechanism (signal peptide)
+ Compatible with most other active ingredients
Cons
− Synthetic — fully laboratory-produced
− Large molecule — limited skin penetration (requires formulation optimization)
− Results take weeks to months to become visible
− Expensive raw material — increases product cost
Specifications
Property
Value
Usage Areas
Face, Eye, Body
Product Type
Leave-On
Source
Synthetic
Natural Level
Synthetic
Safety Ratings
Metric
Rating
Skin Sensitivity
1/5 (very low)
Comedogenic Rating
1/5
EWG Score
1/10
Regional Regulatory Limits
Region
Leave-on %
Rinse-off %
Status
EU (CosIng)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
US (CIR/FDA)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
Japan (MHLW)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
ASEAN
No limit
No limit
Allowed
China (NMPA)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
Typical Usage % by Product Type
Product Type
Typical %
Collagen-boosting serum
0.001 - 0.01%
Firming lotion
0.001 - 0.005%
References
PubMed — Signal peptides in cosmeceuticals. PMID: 18377627