Phenethyl Caffeate
Also known as: CAPE (Caffeic Acid Phenethyl Ester)
INCI: Phenethyl Caffeate | Function: Antioxidant | Type: Polyphenol ester (propolis-derived)
What Is Phenethyl Caffeate?
Phenethyl Caffeate (CAPE — Caffeic Acid Phenethyl Ester) 是蜂胶 (propolis) 中的主要生物活性成分之一。由 caffeic acid 与 phenethyl alcohol 酯化而成, 具有极强的抗氧化、抗炎、抗菌活性。其 NF-κB 抑制活性使其在抗炎护肤品中具有重要价值, 是蜂胶研究中研究最深入的化合物。
Key Skin Benefits
- + Potent antioxidant — 比维生素C更强的自由基清除能力
- + NF-κB inhibition — 强效抗炎通路阻断
- + Antimicrobial — 对多种细菌和真菌有效
Pros
- + One of the most studied propolis compounds — strong research backing
- + Multi-functional: antioxidant + anti-inflammatory + antimicrobial
- + Natural origin from propolis
Cons
- − May cause allergy in bee-product-sensitive individuals
- − Relatively expensive
- − Stability in formulations requires optimization
Specifications
| Property | Value |
|---|
| Usage Areas | Face, Eye, Body, Hair |
| Product Type | Leave-On, Rinse-Off |
| Source | Plant (Propolis) |
| Natural Level | Natural-derived |
Safety Ratings
| Metric | Rating |
|---|
| Skin Sensitivity | 1/5 |
| Comedogenic Rating | 0/5 |
| EWG Score | 1/10 |
Regional Regulatory Limits
| Region | Leave-on % | Rinse-off % | Status |
|---|
| EU (CosIng) | No limit | No limit | Allowed — IFRA standard |
| US (CIR/FDA) | No limit | No limit | Allowed |
| Japan (MHLW) | No limit | No limit | Allowed |
| ASEAN | No limit | No limit | Allowed |
| China (NMPA) | No limit | No limit | Allowed |
Typical Usage % by Product Type
| Product Type | Typical % |
|---|
| Anti-aging serum | 0.05–0.5% |
| Leave-on skincare | 0.1–1% |
| Propolis-based cream | 0.05–0.3% |
References
- EU CosIng Database. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
- Natarajan K et al. (1996) — CAPE as NF-kB inhibitor. PMID: 8910370
- EWG Skin Deep. https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/
- Armutcu F et al. (2015) — CAPE antioxidant effects. PMID: 25882660